Trefethen Estate Vineyards of Oak Knoll.
South of Saint Helena, where I’ve been living this past month, there is a place where the air is cool and the sun is warm. Where Cabernet ripens, not overripens. Where Chardonnay has great acid and Cabernet Franc tastes like herbs. This place is Oak Knoll. The vineyards to visit are those of Trefethen Estate, who for 39 years has been producing 100% Estate Wines from carefully managed vineyards.
The Cabernet Sauvignon grapes here are grown completely sustainably, with a heavy focus on canopy management and covercrops to control the vigor.
Winemaker John Ruel has a background in environmental science and approaches his vineyards as separate ecosystems. He invites biodiversity, posting Owl boxes so the families of Owls keep away mice and gophers. He plants flowers between vines to invite wasps to kill mealybugs that spread viruses. He plants legumes and peas to naturally feed nitrogen to the vines. The cycle is at work.
A fresh vineyard where rootstock is taking hold
Older Cabernet grapes, the leaves turning a glorious bronze.
Inside the tasting room.
Here we sampled the 2010 Estate Dry Riesling, which, to me, tasting as would an unripe peach being eaten next to a steel plant in late fall: light white peach flavors with hint of petrol, austure and crisp with bracing acid and wonderful minerality. Completely unexpected from a Riesling in Napa Valley. Extraordinary.
Next, we were poured the 2009 Estate Chardonnay. I’d like to say forget everything you know about Napa Chardonnay when you get to Trefethen. This was a case study in preserving freshness, acidity, and fruit flavor while using oak. The oak was there, but behind the fruit, pushing it afloat rather than sinking it down. 2009 was a low-sugar vintage for all of Napa Valley, but this wine was incredibly balanced and full of flavor: bright meyer lemon citrus, tart with bright acid, but full- like meringue sprinkled with cinnamon. The secret here was limited use of new oak and minimal malolactic fermentation (14% malolactic in only 16% new French oak). The careful use of barrels, mostly neutral, allows the wine to aerate while aging and fills out the body of the wine without sacrificing acid or freshness.
Next was a big boy. The 2008 Dragon’s Tooth blend is 56% Malbec, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Petite Verdot. I think this was the largest percentages I’ve seen of Petite Verdot and Malbec in a single wine since I’ve been here. This wine was a homage to balanced fruit, as the blueberry pie, smoked chocolate, and ripe plums lingered on the palate for a good two minutes.
Finally, the 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon was beautifully lush in the glass, with big, fresh black fruits and just a touch of aromatic green herbs like celery and basil. While powerful, the mouthfeel was soft. While the fruit was ripe, it was not jammy. The tannins were definitly there, but soft and integrated, giving almost a silky feel. In the finish is where the earth could be found. 1% of this wine is Malbec, adding a depth of color and beautiful aromatics. An impeccable expression of valley floor fruit made with a careful hand.
Oak Knoll. This may be my new favourite AVA.
