Tasting Notes: Iron Horse in Green Valley of Russian River Valley. 10/13/11
I was fortunate enough to visit the Iron Horse Vineyards in Green Valley of Russian River Valley last week to taste the essence of Sonoma at one of the most respected houses in California. Accompanied by Ms Christie Dufault, sommelier and wine educator extraordinaire, and my colleagues from the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, we bussed it up thru the beautiful rolling hills in the coolest growing area of Sonoma where Pinot and Chard are classic.
All wines had bright, lifted acidity, fresh, tart fruit flavors, and limited touch of oak. These are all very representative of cool climate wines, especially from Green Valley of Russian River Valley.
2006 Ocean Reserve, blanc de blancs: bright green apples, salinity, steely, hint of nutmeg.
2007 Wedding Cuvee, blanc de noirs rose: light strawberry and cream, tart rhubarb.
2006 Brut X, 75% Pinot Noir/25% Chardonnay: very dry, lemon-tart, stoney, mineral driven.
2009 Estate Chardonnay: stone fruit, hazelnut, cantelop, brown sugar.
2009 “M” Chardonnay: meyer lemon, underripe orange, green grass, basil. This was the stony hill chardonnay clone and had pronounced citrus notes, especially compared to the more melon-driven estate chard, which was a blend of three other beautiful clones.
Iron Horse is fortunate to be located in Green Valley, an idyllic location for pinot noir and chardonnay. The climate is cool, moderated by both elevation and cool Pacific fog rolling in, giving the grapes a long maturation and heightened acidity. The famed Goldridge soils are a beautiful thing: these well draining, low vigor, sandy neutral soils are not too fertile and not too poor- the ground lets the grapes speak for themselves.
Mr. David Munksgard, the Iron Horse winemaker, will cold soak his pinot noir directly after destemming in order to prevent fermentation for 7 days. This allows much color and flavor to be released without the induction of too much tannin. For chardonnay, the wines are not allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation because he wants the natural, pure acid and flavors of the Green Valley chardonnay to shine through. Because there is no malolactic fermentation, Munksgard can barrel ferment and age his wines in primarily new French oak without overpowering the chardonnay essence. Battonnage is also used to not only increase body but to calm any perceived bitterness from tannins.
I believe that both the set of sparkling wines and chardonnays we tasted were very exemplary of Green Valley terroir. The wines spoke of the purity of the fruit and the lack of manipulation on the winemaker’s part.
This magical, hidden winery was absolutely stunning in personality, style, and finesse. Will be back.
