2012 #Zinfest: Zinfandel Grand Tasting, San Francisco
2012 ZAP Zinfandel Festival. January 28, 2012. San Francisco, California.
There is no better way to spend a Saturday morning than tasting wine, so why not go to the biggest Zinfandel tasting in one of the most beautiful cities in the world? The 2012 ZAP (Zinfandel Advocate & Producers) Grand Tasting was incredible and full of flavor. The Concourse was packed but luckily there was plenty of time to mosey around, taste, and talk before the flood of ticket holders came through.
There were hundreds of producers here from around California (including one from South Africa!), both big and small. My advice when coming to a huge exhibition like this is simple: skip the big names and try at least ten wines from appellations and producers you are the least knowledgeable. Then go and try the ‘classic’ houses or well known estates, and leave out the big-box store brands entirely.
There was a lot to taste, but at this tasting I was to focus mostly on the Zinfandel of Mendocino and Lake counties.
I found that the Zinfandels from Mendocino County all had one thing in common: lighter body and mouthfeel. This was in most cases accompanied by more pronounced acid and lots of berry spice/pepper. The alcohol levels in all the wines were well above 14%ABV, but I think the presence of acid and smoothness of tannins kept everything well integrated. Stand-outs from the lineup included Edmeades 2007 Perli Vineyard blend from Mendocino Ridge. This was 79% Zinfandel, 13% Merlot finished with Syrah and was the biggest and most intense of all the Mendocino wines I tasted. Very spicy, with compote-like flavors of cherry and bramble fruit. But most were more similar to the Carol Shelton ‘Wild Things’ old vine Zinfandel, with a lightness of fruit, sweet nuttiness, savory herbs, black pepper, and certainly dry finish. This was the case too at Dogwood Cellars, where both the 2007 Mendocino and the Sargentinni Vineyard 2010 barrel sample showed savory sage and spice, black and blue fruit, vanilla and assertive tannin. The spiciest and classic of all came from the McNab’s 2009 Cononiah Vineyard, from 30 year old 100% zinfandel vines.
Lake County, being only one county over to the east, proved to be fuller in body and a bit more intense, however I found much more earthiness in these wines. From Shannon Ridge’s Ranch Collection, the 2009 Wrangler Red had a higher sense of alcohol than the Mendocino wines, but with the alcohol comes sweeter fruit, full body, and lots of baked blue and red fruits. The tannin was higher but velvety, and there was a sense of rocky earth. The 2009 Lake County was similarly warming and full, with higher toned fruit flavors of red licorice and raspberry. From Steele I found wines that had a bit of attitude and an essence of farmers making drinkable wines. The 2008 Writer’s Block was by far the earthiest, hints of hay and barn doors, black tea, red fruit, and spice. The Catfish, a field blend from vines over 100 years old, was deeply concentrated, jammy, and volcanic.
Both of these counties showed wonderful expressions of Zinfandel, with Mendocino showing a style much different from the rest of California. I think that the acidity of Mendocino, the result from high elevations, well draining soils, and huge diurnal swings, makes it the most food-friendly, with the elegance and lift necessary to be drinkable without feeling weighted down. The Lake County wines had an intensity of fruit but a country wine earthiness. And while Lake County and Mendocino may not have the glitz and glamour of hugely well known estates in the more southernly appellations, these wines had a definite connection to the land and the people involved in the process.
Tasted
Mendocino:
- McNab Cononian Vineyard Reserve, 2009 (100% Zinfandel)
- McNab Zinister Rerserve, 2009 (85% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah)
- McNab Ridge, 2009 (Zinfandel, Petite Sirah)
- Edmeades Mendocino, 2009
- Edmeades Perli Vineyard, 2007 (79% Zinfandel, 13% Merlot, 8% Syrah)
- Edmeades Shamrock Vineyard, 2009
- Carol Shelton Wild Thing Old Vines 2008
- Dogwood Cellars Mendocino, 2007
- Dogwood Cellars Sargentinni Vineyard, 2010 (barrel sample- 85% Zinfandel, 15% Carignan)
Lake County:
- Shannon Ridge Ranch Collection, Lake County, 2009
- Shannon Ridge Ranch Collection, Wrangler Red Blend, 2008
- Steele Writer’s Block, 2008
- Steele Catfish blend, 2009
— Other Regions: —
- 2009 Turley ‘Hayne Vineyard’ barrel sample: Opulant, mouthfilling fruit, bright and balanced with huge power. From the historic and very old vines of Hayne Vineyard in Saint Helena, Napa.
- 2009 Ridge Lytton Springs Carmichael Ranch. Sweet, plush red fruit with purple flowers and chocolate. Silky smooth with moderate acid. Alexander Valley, Sonoma. 96% Zin.
- 2009 Ridge Lytton Springs Lytton Estate. Big red fruit and spice with a medium body. Well integrated alcohol, wood, and tannin, with a good grip on the finish. From 109 year old vines in Dry Creek. 71% Zin.
- 2010 Ridge Vineyards, Paso Robles (Barrel Sample). This guy was fruit forward and juicy, with bright cherry flavors ranging from sour to pie. Super smooth.
- Chateau Montelena’s 2009 Estate Zinfandel was the winner in my book for the day. I thought it was the most balanced in terms of power, fruit, and earth. Classic Napa Valley.
I tasted many, many more (including the wonderful and classic Mayacamas Range from Storybook Mountain, but after tasting dozens of wines over 14%ABV, I wasn’t keeping up with my tasting notebook.
Cheers!
